![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The chef frequently assumed a highly visible seat at Babbo’s bar, doing no cooking but sipping wine and making sure to be seen while the underlings he had molded labored in the kitchen to fulfill the promise of his innovative menus. Buford sometimes has trouble not stooping to grovel when he brings the American-born, Italian-trained Batali onto the scene, but he nonetheless manages a full portrait of the celebrity chef as occasional paranoid, willful boor and megalomaniacal disciplinarian. The author worked as a lowly, often humiliated cooking intern at New York’s celebrated Babbo restaurant-the “slave,” as he puts it, of chef and partner Mario Batali. New Yorker staff writer and obsessed foodie Buford ( Among the Thugs, 1992) infiltrates a top chef’s kitchen to plumb Italian food as haute cuisine. ![]()
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